From
The Sunday Times Travel Magazine
Rimini-born Federico Fellini made some of his best films in his beloved
birthplace, but it’s pretty obvious why he chose Rome as the setting for La
Dolce Vita.
And no wonder Audrey Hepburn’s Princess, in the movie Roman Holiday, ditched
her title to run around the city on the back of Gregory Peck’s Vespa.
Somehow effortlessly, the capital marries seriously photogenic architecture
with a sunny, playful disposition: equal parts sombre ancient temples and
capricious dolphin fountains.
The city is a magical history tour, best known for its Baroque buildings, but
honed by architects and artists either side of that era into a showcase of
Classical, Medieval and Renaissance beauty – thread together just one
example of each and you’ve got a glorious slideshow of a weekend. And don’t
think the place is all about past glories.
Spanking new buildings – dazzling outings in gleaming glass and Ariel-white
concrete – are injecting postmodern pizzazz into Rome’s picture-postcard
cityscape of temples and towers, and their pure lines are drawing crowds of
design-devoted visitors. It means you can immerse yourself in history
(columns, Caravaggio) for half a day, then crank things up with contemporary
art in the afternoon, clubbing in appealingly edgy areas after dark – new
nightlife is transforming run-down districts into distinctly disco zones.
Even the famously traditional food scene is hotting up, with designer pizzas
and deconstructed dolci (puds). And while it was once tricky to stay
somewhere classy but not costly, that’s no longer the case. If Hepburn’s
Princess were to visit today, you can bet she’d cash in the tiara for a
moped of her own.Rachel Spence
PAST PERFECT
Newly on show after years of restoration, Rome’s most compelling classical
site right now is Trajan’s Market (00 39 060 60608, www.mercatiditraiano.it;
£5), one of the few that give a real glimpse of what life was actually like
in the ancient world. Built 50-250 AD, it’s a half-moon of tiered streets
with ancient bars and boutiques so well-preserved you can still see the
grooves where they slammed down the shutters at the end of a hard day’s
trading. The site recently re-opened with the Imperial Forums Museum – which
gives you a sorely-needed insight in to the head-spinning history behind
each of the different ancient forums.
One of Rome’s few surviving examples of medieval architecture is a stunner:
the Basilica di Santa Maria, in Trastevere, has a glittering facade of
pale-faced, lamp-bearing ladies picked out in mosaics. The whole thing is
actually a happy hodge-podge, with a Baroque porch tacked on over the
12th-century exterior, marching classical columns, and more sparkly mosaics.
Best of all, you can see it while sitting down – take a pew at Caffè di
Marzio (Piazza di Santa Maria 15), and order one of its famously tall and
thirst-slaking glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice.
Rock up early for the finest Renaissance show in town – queues for the Vatican
Museums (00 39 066 988 3333, www.vatican.va;
£11) seem to be waiting for Godot rather than Michelangelo. You won’t regret
it once you’re in: scuttle straight to the Sistine Chapel. If God darting
about on the ceiling looks a tad stressed, maybe it’s because seven days
wasn’t long enough to create the world. Now backtrack to the Raphael rooms
and play spot the VIP (Very Important Philosopher) in the Renaissance
artist’s School of Athens masterpiece.
Do as the Romans do and kick back in the sprawling, tree-studded retreat that
is the Villa Borghese gardens. You’ll soon be high on the scent of pine
needles and orange blossom, and ready to tackle the Galleria Borghese
(Piazzale del Museo 5; 00 39 068 413979, www.galleriaborghese.it;
£8, timed entry). Originally the art collection of a 17th-century Cardinal –
no one can accuse the Catholic Church of puritanism – it’s so
masterpiece-heavy, you don’t know where to start. Just memorise the two
names Bernini and Caravaggio, then go and find the soaring visions of those
Italian masters.
Don't forget Le Fate Restaurant in Trastevere....a beautifully decorated, family run restaurant serving a taste of Rome at a very reasonable price. Viale Trastevere 130-134 www.lefaterestaurant.it 0039 0658 00971. I visit Rome regularly and go there every time!
Nikki Ciocca, Limassol, Cyprus