She’s got more secrets than the Pope, and a much better wardrobe, but Roma
wasn’t built in a day, and you’ll need more than a couple to peel back all
those gorgeous layers. So says the new, super-glam Luxe guide to Rome – and
we couldn’t agree more. To help you plan the perfect long weekend in the
Eternal City, we’ve cherry-picked Luxe’s top tips. All you have to do now is
hop into your Alfa, Romeo...
SLEEPING
Hotel de Russie Mr Forte’s modern, classic-glam gem, bordering the
sylvan Pincio Gardens, is not only ideally situated for shop’n’scoff, but
features the perfect blend of style, comfort and service, with the svelte
Stravinskij bar and courtyard, Jardin de Russie restaurant and a spa. 00
39-06 328 881, www.hotelderussie.it
; doubles from £444
InTown House This luxury B&B in the heart of label-land offers six
pared-back but nesty rooms, in a handsome palette of chocs and greiges, and
the world’s smallest lift. Take the top-floor suite No 402 with its
street-facing terrace. 06 6938 0200, www.intownroma.it
; doubles from £225, that suite from £478
Casa Howard With 10 uniquely designed, cosy rooms in two locations,
it’s like staying in a very relaxed, stylish friend’s home. Take the saucy
Zebra room with its little balcony if you can. And yes, pets are allowed, so
Fido can live la dogce vita too. Woof! Note: some rooms don’t have ensuite
bathrooms. 06 6992 4555, www.casahoward.com
; doubles from £109
Buonanotte Garibaldi Artsy B&B in atmosy Trastevere, with just
three super-simple rooms set around a pretty courtyard. Faff-free. 06 5833
0733, www.buonanottegaribaldi.com
; doubles from £150
EATING
Dal Bolognese The food at Rome’s most famous eatery is no better or
worse than elsewhere (bollito misto is the signature), but the establishment
crowd is totally priceless. Rome’s creamy layer – politicos and their
“wives”, footballers, filmies and face-lifts – all table-hopping,
mwah-mwahing and having torrid affairs. For sheer entertainment value alone
it’s worth every penny. “ Cara mia, I never tire of seeing you in that
dress...” Book well ahead. Piazza del Popolo 1; 06 361 1426; closed Mon
Antico Arco Atop the Janiculum Hill above Trastevere, this converted
villa has blossomed into the perfect blend of home and hip, with stylish
crew and zippy menu. Piazzale Aurelio 7; 06 581 5274; dinner only, closed
Sun
Santa Lucia In season, there is nowhere lovelier for dining at night
than this triangular, tree-lined terrazzo. Take a predinner Marti at the
nearby roof-terraced Hotel Raphael. Largo Febo 12; 06 6880 2427; closed Tue
Da Nino Step back to the 1950s in this lovely, classico, wood-panelled,
busy but elegant eatery, with gruff waiters and a cross-section local crowd.
Divine ribollita (hearty veggie soup). Our hands-down favourite in tutta
Roma. Via Borgognona 11; 06 679 5676; closed Sun and Aug
Caffe Chiostro del Bramante Magic hideaway cloister-modester, with
glowbar and delicious Sunday brunch. Hip. (As you face the church of Santa
Maria della Pace, the entrance is on the left.) Via della Pace 26; 06 6880
9035, www.chiostrodelbramante.
it ; closed
Mon Ciampini This lovely cafe has a charming retro gelato bar inside, serving
our fave flaves in Rome. The scandalous whipped cream (panna) is only for
the true devotee. Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29; 06 687 6606
SEEING
The Sistine Chapel Mikey’s iconic masterpiece is almost always swarming
with people with cricks in their necks. However, depending on how flush
you’re feeling, it is difficult, but sometimes possible, to book a private
visit. Try Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com
), IF (www.italysfinest.it
) or www.selectitaly.com
. Expect to pay about £3,600 for the place to yourself, or £320 to join a
group of just 15 other people.
The Scavi Tour This small section of the pagan necropolis and purported
resting place of St Peter himself, directly underneath St Peter’s Basilica,
is highly atmospheric, claustrophobic and severely restricted in numbers.
You can only book directly through the Vatican Excavations Office by e-mail
or fax – full details can be found by typing “Scavi” into the search engine
at www.vatican.va – book way ahead; only 200 people per day are permitted
under the basilica, for which there is no extra cost, if you are selected.
The Galleria Borghese Not only is the villa pretty, but the divine,
perfectly sized museum inside contains gorgeous works by Titian, Raphael,
Caravaggio and Rubens, as well as the staggering Bernini masterpieces Apollo
and Daphne, and Pluto and Proserpina, and Canova’s Pauline Bonaparte
reclining on her comfy marble sofa like a saucy minx. Visits are limited to
2hr and 360 people per intake. Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5; 06 328 10; www.galleriaborghese.it
; book in advance
SPENDING
Per Non Dormire Sultry, beautiful lingerie designs. The peignoirs are
sculpted like evening dresses and definitely “not for sleeping”. Hubby’ll
have them off quick as a bride’s nightie... and if he doesn’t, dump him,
presto. Via degli Specchi 3; 06 6821 0784; strictly by appointment
Federico Polidori Step into this marvellous little workshop/store for
exquisite, lustrous bags, briefcases and sporting goods, totally made to
order from heavy golden hides and sewn by hand by Federico. Via Pie di Marmo
7; 06 679 7191; closed Sun
My Cup of Tea Buzz up to this bright, secret studio featuring new
designers, artists, fash, jewels and hats. You never know what you’ll find
in this chic Aladdin’s den. Via del Babuino 65; 06 3265 1061; Mon-Fri
10am-6pm or by appointment
NAMES AND NUMBERS FOR THE PERFECT ROMAN HOLIDAY
Happyrent One-stop shop for classic cars and Vespas with or without drivers,
plus nifty vintage tours of Rome. 06 4202 0675, www.happyrent.com IF This
exclusive membership lifestyle concierge vaults you onto the Alist for
parties and arranges tricky tables, helicopters and travel. www.italysfinest.it
Bici e Baci Rome is a perfect place to pedal. Saddle up. 06 482 8443, www.bicibaci.com
Eco Move Rent Is it a bird? No, it’s a plane, and you can zip over the Eternal
City in it for €80 (£55). Fly, baby. 06 4470 4518, www.ecomoverent.com
Blu Aubergine Personal chef and restaurant critic Dana Klitzberg creates
gourmet itineraries around town and teaches personal cooking classes. 06 686
9986 or 347 260 7465, www.bluaubergine.com
GETTING THERE
Airlines include Air One (020 8939 2434, www.flyairone.it
), Alitalia (0870 544 8259, www.alitalia.com
), BMI Baby (0871 224 0224, www.bmibaby.com
), British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com
), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com
) and Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.com
). The new Luxe guide to Rome is published this month. It costs £4.99. For
a 15% discount, go to www.luxecityguides.com
and use the promotion code STROMA. Note that prices are not included in the
guide
Luxe tips
Forget the Metro, it goes nowhere and is bone useless.
Taxi drivers are notorious for adding extras, so watch the meter. In town, the
meter’s red dot should be next to the number 1; if not, he’s diddling you...
Stillies and cobbled streets don’t mix – break out the flats.
Shops generally open from 10am to 7.30pm. Smaller ones take an afternoon pause
from 1pm to 4pm, and most close all day Sunday and Monday mornings.
Restaurants and services tend to close on Sunday too, so use this day for
museums and activities.
Always book well ahead for the city’s best tables and be sure to reconfirm, as
reservations often get “lost”.
Service is always included, but add 10% anyway.
Caffe/espressois a single shot; doppiois a double shot;americanois a long
black. Drinking cappuccino after midday is very déclassé.
Very nice tips. I agree with most. BTW, you can get a 'private tour guide' for about 70 euros an hour for the complete Vatican tour. Plan for 3 hours. It gets you in the back door in about 5 minutes. I try to go to Roma every year. Plan to walk to enjoy Roma. Many thanks.
Mark-Allen, Marly, Switzerland