This week we travel to northern Burgundy, a region that, after high medieval
times of religious and political prominence, took early retirement to play
to its real strengths — farming, eating, drinking and growing rather red in
the face... all in settlements they’ve scarcely updated since half-timbering
was the rage.
It’s wonderful, and — better still — many splendid buildings survive from the
halcyon days, lending grandeur and even spirituality to the landscape.
Another good thing is that this is northern Burgundy, so, Chablis aside,
there’s not much famous wine about, so few people go and you’ll likely have
the hills, rivers, forests and farmland to yourself.
We start, in late afternoon, in Sens, 75 miles southeast of Paris.
DAY ONE
Like much of Burgundy, Sens was once important, isn’t any longer, but retains
awesome trappings. The facade of St Etienne’s Cathedral and the attendant
archbishop’s palace soar with historical significance they clearly feel is
wasted on a small market town.
The lady behind the cash desk in the palace (it’s now a museum) is of similar
mind. But enter anyway. Within are superb Gallo-Roman steles and mosaics
and, upstairs, the cathedral treasure — including an alb worn by Thomas à
Becket, who holed up here while on the lam from Henry II. A linen tunic, it
was obviously styled for Cyril Smith’s larger ancestor. Thomas must have
swum about in it a bit.
Now hurry to the cathedral next door, a mighty 12th-century work straddling
romanesque and gothic. Pause and wonder at the divine certainties that
inspired such a building, and that’s your duty done.
Check into the Hôtel de Paris et de la Poste, just up the road (97 Rue de la
République, 00 33-3 86 65 17 43, www.hotel-paris-poste.com; doubles from
£44). Eat, drink and relax into the Burgundian rhythm. ()
DAY TWO
Out early to the market hall, opposite the cathedral, to see where Burgundy’s
real interests lie. (“With your rabbit, ask for blood,” advises a notice
above the butcher’s.) Then down the eastern side of the Yonne, through the
broad farming valley to Auxerre. Park along the quay, in one of France’s
loveliest riverscapes. Barges and houseboats give solid life to the banks.
An impenetrable warren of wriggling thoroughfares cloaks the slope. Up top,
cathedral and St Germain Abbey overlook the whole, shorn of influence but
not of authority.
Nip to both, although you can only visit the abbey’s 9th- century frescoes on
a guided tour. The 11th-century frescoes in the cathedral crypt are,
however, open to all and are humbling. You may never have seen Christ on a
horse before.
Suitably awestruck, now simply amble, by buildings either half-timbered or in
stone the colour of old piano keys. Remark the air of well-rooted
contentment. It’s an open-minded sort of place, perhaps the only one in
France to boast a statue of a pornographer — the region’s 18th-century
libertine, Restif de la Bretonne. It’s by the great clock tower.
Lunch at Le Schaeffer (Place Lepère; from £10) and leave for Pontigny. Here’s
a village dominated by one of the most austere and uplifting churches the
12th-century Cistercians ever built. If only they’d lose the clashing
17th-century choir and screen, it would be even better.
Double back down the Serein valley, whose vine-stitched hills announce
Chablis, a village plump with plonk and ancestral gourmandise. Drive on,
through countryside that looks as countryside should: little hills, rivers,
forest, undulating cereal fields and pastures. Dart into Noyers-sur-Serein,
a spot almost over-freighted with half-timbered prettiness. Then snake along
the lanes of the Serein valley to Semur-en-Auxois.
Make for the Hostellerie d’Aussois, on the outskirts (Route de Saulieu, 03 80
97 28 28, www.hostellerie.fr; doubles from £54 low season, £62 high), before
bobbing up to the old centre, perched so perfectly above the Armançon River
that, by night and with church and ramparts lit, it seems to float.
Wander to the mighty Notre-Dame. Then wander some more, as evening pulls the
venerable atmosphere around you. Dine at Le Calibressan on Rue Févret, a
lively mix of Burgundy and California; from £17. ()
DAY THREE
North to Montbard, and along the enchanting valley to Fontenay Abbey, one of
the greatest religious sites in France. I love it so much that I get carried
away. So let me just say that the site exudes monumental calm and purity,
and when you enter the majestic church, its white stone decorated only by
shifting sunlight, wellbeing seeps into the soul.
Three pieces of advice: get there as it opens at 10am, before the crowds;
visit alone so nobody is chattering at you; and force yourself to leave, or
you’ll be taking Holy Orders.
Now dart along the road up to Alise-Ste-Reine, where Caesar finally tamed the
Gauls in 52BC. A vast statue of the Gaulish leader Vercingétorix crowns the
hill, suggesting he was a ringer for 1970s US rock star David Crosby. No
wonder they lost. The views, though, are arresting.
Onto the titchy D10 to Saulieu, where France’s most famous (and most jovial)
chef, Bernard Loiseau, shot himself a couple of years ago. His restaurant
still thrives on those who can afford to spend £70 on lunch.
Fortunately, it’s flanked by others along the main road, including the Hôtel
de la Poste: have lunch there, from £13. Then dart to the Musée Pompon, a
celebration of the animal sculptor François Pompon (though The Polar Bear, a
fantastic item, is in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris).
Now move into the Morvan uplands of water, wood and lives lived hard. It’s
bracing and beautiful and will bring you to Avallon, perched on a bluff.
“Avallon,” visitors are told, “was often burnt, pillaged and its inhabitants
slaughtered or decimated by outbreaks of plague. The Tourism Office wishes
you a pleasant stay.”
From Avallon, filter along the Cousin valley to Vézelay and the Hôtel de la
Poste et du Lion d’Or (Place du Champ-de-Foire, 03 86 33 21 23,
www.laposte-liondor.com; doubles from £50). Dine at Le Bougainville, from
£15 — but moderately. You’re in a terribly holy village.
DAY FOUR
Up the steep main street to the basilica, a beacon of medieval Christendom.
Its celebrity was based on a con — the claim to possess relics of Mary
Magdalene. The great and the good showed up — crusades two and three even
kicked off here — and the resultant wealth built this extraordinary
romanesque pile. The atmospherics are grandiose, as are the views over
Burgundian hills and vales.
Now nip south to Bazoches, for the superbly preserved castle where Louis XIV’s
military strategist, Vauban, lived and worked. Then to Clamecy, and along
the back lanes to St-Sauveur-en- Puisaye. One of the trip’s real treats
awaits just down the road, at Guédelon.
Deep in the forest, 50 people are building a 13th-century castle, using only
13th-century methods. No electricity, cranes, trucks or that sort of
carry-on. It’s a huge medieval building site athrob with masons, smiths,
carpenters, animals and tilers. No space here to go into detail, but it’s
the most engrossing historical site I’ve visited in ages. Do not miss it on
any account.
Thus, you will be buoyed up for the final leg to St-Fargeau. The village has a
gigantic, pink castle, but little is gained by paying to go round it.
Instead, relax over a drink before checking into the chambres d’hôte at 2
Rue Raymond Vernay (03 86 74 03 73, www.iletaitunefoisjardin.free.fr;
doubles from £43, B&B; dinner £14pp). The gardens are bright, the
hostess effusive and the food toothsome.
Travel details: Sens is about four motorway hours from
Calais, which can be reached from Dover by SeaFrance (0870 443 1653,
www.seafrance.com) or P&O Ferries (0870 598 0333, www.poferries.com),
with fares from about £50 for a car and passengers. It’s also about 1½
hours’ drive from Paris.
