I have a few days in Copenhagen and want to revisit the Christiania area. It has been many years since I was last there. I seem to remember reading that there has been a crackdown by the police and it is no longer so interesting, or safe. Would you recommend that I go there? Frank Griffiths, Sunderland

Sunday Times travel expert Richard Green responds: The downtown hippy district of Christiania started life in 1971, when squatters occupied an area of former military barracks right in the heart of the city. A community of 900 people still live there, and absolutely, you should definitely go and take a look. It's still a fascinating and unique urban experiment.

The nearest station is on the cities new metro is Christanshavn, about a ten-minute walk away. The first entrance that you come to if you walk along Princessegade is on the right hand side of the road, through a little brick archway.

I'm sure memories will come flooding back, as not too much has changed.

After the neat streets of the rest of Copenhagen, it does take a few moments to get accustomed to the unkempt dirt paths and grungy atmosphere. But once you do, it's a great place for an afternoon wander or an evening meal.

Pushers Alley has calmed down considerably since selling drugs here was outlawed in 2004, and while in the earthy coffee shops and festival-style trinket stalls, you might detect the whiff of a spliff, you won't be hassled.

The southern end of the alley on the right is a good place for a pit stop. Here you'll find several bars selling beer for £3.50, and food stalls doing massive chillies, burgers, and pasta, for about £6. There is also a temporary stage, which hosts rock bands most Sunday evenings.

However, for a proper meal in comfortable surroundings - even for anyone who is a bit squeamish about Christiania ­ head for Spiseloppen (00 45 32 579558). It's just a few yards inside the enclave in a large old barrack building. The entrance is an unmarked, save for the graffiti, which leads to a metal unpromising metal staircase. Climb to the third floor and it's the door on the right.

Rather surprisingly, you will find yourself in a lovely long dining area with wooden floors, candles, and a cosy atmosphere. Menus change regularly and the food is very good. And you won't find any of the colourful crowd from pusher's alley eating here either ­ it's pleasantly packed with creative types on first dates, and some tourists too. Mains are from £17.

For more information, visit www.christiania.org

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